Tuesday, July 18, 2023

[Travel] Riga, Latvia Trip

I have been dreaming of Riga ever since stepping foot on Europe. 

For me, Riga sounds romantic, old world and ordinarily extraordinary. I imagined it to be a capital filled with lots of stories about the bravery of its people and taking up arms; a city that served and is still serving as the median between western and eastern Europe. A real central European country if you will.



And I wasn't wrong. It was picturesque, comforting and rather welcoming. The old town deserved its UNESCO World Heritage Site title and there is so much to do and see. From Gdansk, it only took me a 55min airplane ride. 


Short History

I opted to use a *FREE* guided tour in Riga. It was a nice decision because I saw a lot of things that was on my list and some of the things that I would definitely missed out on if I just go around alone. I unfortunately don't know which Tour Agency I used but it was those guys that wait around at the entrance St Peter's Church at around 12 noon. They have the blue lanyard. Anyway, going back.

So, Latvia was actually German-born. It has been "established" by an Archbishop Albert from Bremen and has been under German "overlordship" for 700 years. Of course prior to these German overlords, there have been multiple settlers like the Balts and the Vikings. You can read more about Latvia's brief history through this link: click me. After the long reign of the Germans, the Swedish Kingdom took the reins for 89 years and as vassal of the Polish throne for a good 40 years. Now, whether this happened simultaneously, I can't really say unless I dig a deep rabbit hole. All I know is that Sweden and Poland are at one point allies due to the relationship between their respective sovereigns. And by relationship, I mean cousins of close degrees and proximities. 

It was rather weird for me to know that at one point in time, the Swedes are a power to reckon with in the battlefield. I mean, of course, I know who Carl XII is, but the reach of the Swedish Kingdom back then was miniscule in comparison to other western players such as Great Britain (now the United Kingdom), France, Spain and even Portugal. Thanks to the effort of Peter the Great and his successors though, the West was seemingly eclipsed by the Russian Empire. The expansion of the Empire put Latvia under its rule for 217 years.


Old Town

Riga's old town is another UNESCO World Heritage Site. After WW2, about 70% of it was preserved hence it was awarded this honor. It was a rather small site and relatively easy to get around to. I rode the scooter a couple of times in here but I thought it was a bad idea since the streets are cobbled and quite difficult to drive in. 


Rīgas Svētā Pētera baznīca
St. Peter's Basilica
Medieval Church and almost completely preserved after WW2




Brēmenes muzikanti
Bremen's City Musicians
(Front View)

Brēmenes muzikanti
Bremen's City Musicians
Apparently based on a story of the Brothers' Grimm but also signifies the Iron Wall and the division of Western and Eastern Europe.
The noses of the animals are rubbed by tourists as a sign of good luck. Didn't have to. I'm living the life.



Brēmenes muzikanti
House of the Blackheads

I actually planned to go inside this one but at 8 euros, even with a free champagne drink, it's not worth it if you're travelling on a budget. The House of the Blackheads building was reconstructed after the end of the Soviet Rule (it was just a box building before surrounded by more bland box establishments) and it was there to commemorate the leading trade group in Latvia. In surrounding countries, the Hanseatic League was prominent but in the Baltic Region, the Brotherhood of the Blackheads was the leading merchant group.



Trīs Brāļi
The Three Brothers
Buildings adjacent to each other
L-R youngest (late 17th century), middle (late 16th to early 17th century), oldest (1500s)

Front view
These are the oldest example of medieval dwelling houses in Riga

You can go in for free at it has a small museum about architecture inside the middle brother
There is a small courtyard outside these houses



Jauniela Street
During the Soviet Regime in the Baltics, this street is the Paris, Vienna and other capital cities used in films.

This is the street that was also used in Sissi, the movie about the life of Empress Elizabeth of Austria

Rīgas Doms
Riga Cathedral
All roads in medieval Riga leads to the Cathedral. Just like in Rome.



A UNESCO World Heritage Site
My dream is to see all the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Europe and this one is for the books!



Latvijas Kara muzejs
Latvia's War Museum (the adjacent tower is the Powder Tower where ammos were stored)
This museum is for free but not a lot of exhibit is in English
A MUST VISIT when in Riga as it shows the courage and bravery of the soldiers and the resistance groups during the soviet annexation


Display showing the Baltic countries:
Latvia, Lithuania and Estonia
It is said that Latvians are somewhat in the middle when it comes demeanor, Lithuanians are the chill ones (which was shown when they called their capital, Vilnius, as the G-spot of Europe) and Estonians are the most stoics. 

Zviedru vārti
Swedish Gate
A 17th century gate

As for the name of this gate, there are two known possible reasons. One is about a troop of Swedish soldiers surrendering to Peter the Great and exiting through this gate and the other one is about a star-crossed love story between a Swedish soldier and a Latvian virgin.  Of course, the latter sounds more interesting. According to Wikipedia:

One of the legends about this structure tells about the origins of the name of the gates, which goes as following: it has been told that young ladies were forbidden to date soldiers, but one romantic relationship between a girl and a Swedish soldier did develop. And so that happened that these gates were their meeting spot. Once, the young man did not arrive at the usual place, and the locals, knowing that the girl has been involved in this prohibited affinity, took her and built her into the wall of the gates. Since then, the rumor goes that in the midnight her cries can be heard by those whose love is pure and unconditional: "I still do love him..!"
You can check out the lores through this link.



Saeima
Parliament Building of Latvia

Kaķu nams
Cat House
Art Nouveau Building
Riga is known to this architectural style. There is one district in Riga that is known for this type of architecture.

Just a view in front of the Brīvības piemineklis (Freedom Monument)
This is also the last stop of the Old Town Tour. We are now at the Main City



Main City

Brīvības piemineklis
Freedom Monument
It is considered an important symbol of the freedom, independence, and sovereignty of Latvia.

Love bridge at Bastejkalna park
And just like other European cities, locks on bridges!


A building at the Art Nouveau District in Riga
Riga Jugendstil
Google Map link here

A building at the Art Nouveau District in Riga
Riga Jugendstil
Google Map link here


A building at the Art Nouveau District in Riga
Riga Jugendstil
Google Map link here


Rīgas Kristus Piedzimšanas pareizticīgo katedrāle
Riga Nativity of Christ Orthodox Cathedral 
A magnificent church outside of the Old City. You can see the golde-painted domes from afar.

Rīgas Kristus Piedzimšanas pareizticīgo katedrāle
Riga Nativity of Christ Orthodox Cathedral 
(front)

Rīgas pils
Riga Castle
Not as medieval looking as other castles in Europe as it now houses the Official Presidential Residence and several museums. It is originally founded in 1330.


Memorial for all the victims killed by the Cheka (KGB) in Latvia
Stūra Māja
The Corner House

A separate post will be made for this.
What is inside this museum made my blood boil



Rīgas Centrāltirgus
Riga's Central Market
This is close to the Main Bus Station so you can do all your shopping here before leaving Riga for the other Baltic countries

PICKLES!


Rīgas geto un Latvijas holokausta muzejs
Museum of the Riga Ghetto and Holocaust in Latvia

This museum is for FREE.
I unfortunately wasn't able to visit it since it was close at the time that I was there.
Guess I just have to go back.

Look at the model train in the middle of the museum's courtyard. That is a replica of the train where Jews were loaded during the holocaust in Europe.

Latvijas Nacionālā bibliotēka
National Library of Riga
My last stop in Riga. This is located across the bridge from the Old Town.


Library sculpture. So cool. Much wow.

Donated books for this display by people from Riga

Impressive sight!

Others

Me sporting a pullover I bought during this travel. From the 24 degrees of  Gdańsk to the 13-17 degrees of Latvia. Not to mention the rain.

Cute cupcakes I took a photo of while waiting for the KGB Museum to open

Cheap cakes at the Central Market. I have never seen such prices in Norway. So envious.

Me wearing a jacket I bought in Riga as well. The pullover wasn't enough

Clean, affordable, efficient, and on time tram in Riga


This post was rather taxing since it's so long and I have to research a lot for this. BUT, even if that's the case, it gave me an opportunity to relive again my stay in Riga. The dream of stepping foot in Latvia became a reality and that silly dream of mine is now a treasured memory. 

See you in Tallinn, Estonia!

Sunday, July 16, 2023

[Travel] Gdańsk Trip

Endlich habe ich Zeit dafür!

I took a two-week vacation last month to four countries and my first stop is Gdańsk in Poland. This city, once a free state under the protection of the Kingdom of Poland, is truly a marvel and an unexpected beauty. It is so rich in history and a known trade capital amongst the many Hanseatic cities in Europe. This is also the city where WW2 officially started when Hitler attacked Polish forces at Westerplatte on 1 September 1939.

I've stayed for three days here which includes a day trip to the nearby city of Malborg (which I would also be featuring in another blog). In my opinion, it is more than enough to cover the main tourist sites in the Old City (upon entering Brama Wyzynna), the Westerplatte peninsula and the New City.

Gdańsk is relatively more expensive than neighbouring Polish cities and I got waaaaay over my budget here even though I stayed with someone (who I met by the way on a Facebook Group called Host a Sister--highly recommended if you are on a tight budget and/or just backpacking). There was just too much to see and too much to do and eveything costs money. I did a lot of planning and research beforehand but budgeting using prices from blogs published a couple of years (or even months) ago is not that reliable. I plan to upload a separate budget blog since I can't do so at the moment while I am on a vacation. My notes are not with me. 

For now, enjoy these photos I've taken during my trip and tidbits of information about it.


I love taking photos of manhole covers. It usually bears the city's coat of arms or any symbols representing it.






Another cute thing about European cities are the hidden statues all over. It is a tourist thing to look and map for these little fellas. These three are just some of many scattered in Gdańsk. The one on top is located at Hevelianum. The last one is besides the big Gdańsk sign located at the old town.


Old Town Attractions


Dwór Artusa

and the famous Fontanna Neptuna in front of it


Inside the Dwór Artusa
King Charles III walked in this very hall.







The Main Town Hall
You can climb the Town Hall Clock Tower to see an outstanding view of the Old City


View in front of the Fontanna Neptuna

View from the clock tower

View from the clock tower


Small scale of the Main Town Hall


Basilica of St. Mary's Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary

Bazylika Mariacka Wniebowzięcia Najświętszej Maryi Panny w Gdańsku





The astronomical clock. This one is better than the one in Prague



The Crane
Stary żuraw portowy



It is currently close for construction but they are saying that by 2025, you can try to lift up heavy goods using the old method again. It's like hamster wheel mechanism.



Views


View of the Motława River at the Green Gate (nothing is Green there but for some reason, medieval people call it that way)

Sołdek Museum
This is a retired ship that is now a museum related to maritime in Gdańsk


Mariacka Street
A charming street where amber jewellery are being sold

Zespół Przedbramia
Previously a prison and now a museum. This imposing building is the first one you'll see after going through the many gates of the Old City



Main Town/New Town


Góra Gradowa
Gradowa Hill

This cross is on top of the hill which was previously a part of the old city wall defense. 

          FYI (source):

Unveiled on September 3, 2000 on the site of a World War II anti-aircraft gun, the Millennium Cross is one of the most visible monuments in Gdansk. As it name suggests, it is a Christian cross and stands at over 16m tall. It sits overlooking the city from the highest point in the city, in an area which houses the remains of a Napoleon-era fort and a modern day science museum. The cross was created to mark 2,000 years of Christianity, the 1,000th anniversary of Gdansk (created 997) and to commemorate those who had died in the city during the previous 300 years. The cross was designed by sculptor Jacek Luczak.





Dwór Cechu Młynarzy
Replica of the Great Mill

                     FYI (source):
Half-timbered building, a replica of the Great Mill built on the northern side of the island in 1831, which was demolished due to poor technical condition and rebuilt in a new location thanks to history lovers. After the destruction in 1945, it was rebuilt only in 1997 (as the second replica of the building) thanks to the preserved documentation. Also known as the House of the Millers' Guild.
The building housed the Hostel Dom Młynarza and the Inn "Pod Wielki Młynem". At the end of 2013, a chocolate lounge was opened there, which was suspended on 21 December 2015.



of course, all these locks from lovers. Very common in Europe


Westerplatte


The peninsula where the Invasion of Poland began. Also really nice beach area.

FYI (source):

The Westerplatte Monument, also known as the Monument to the Defenders of the Coast (Polish: Pomnik Obrońców Wybrzeża) is a war memorial located in Gdańsk, Poland, on the Westerplatte Peninsula in the Gdańsk harbour channel constructed between 1964–1966 to commemorate the Polish defenders of the Military Transit Depot (Wojskowa Składnica Tranzytowa, or WST) in the Battle of Westerplatte, one of the first battles in Germany's invasion of Poland, which marked the outbreak of World War II in Europe.





Coast

ruined building




Others

I wasn't really able to try a lot of local foods during my visit. I opted to check out fast food chains that I've missed back home since I am so deprived in Norway (not a lot of familiar and good options). I kept on eating at KFC since I miss eating juicy fried chicken so much.

Lody (ice cream)
They serve it extremely long like this.
Always 10/10 during hot days

Gold Wasser
A drink which is only distilled in Gdańsk.
It is a clear and spicy-sweet liqueur, in which small gold leaf flakes float, has an alcohol content of 40 percent by volume.
If you want to read more, click here.


First Polish meal at Bar Neptun
Affordable and really good.
I ordered goulash with mash potates, pancake with champignon and mushroom soup and kompot (non alcoholic fruit drink)


Me collecting more coins

Muzeum II Wojny Światowej - Gdańsk
World War II Museum
(I want to make a separate post for this since this one is memorable for me as a history junkie)

Bye for now.